Sustainability-In-Tech : New Class Of Sustainable Bacteria-Made Textiles

London-based biomaterials company Modern Synthesis has unveiled a new class of nonwoven materials derived from ‘bacterial nanocellulose’.

Sustainable Alternative To Other Materials

These innovative textiles can be made to replace everything from plastic films to leathers, thereby offering a sustainable alternative to some of the fashion and automotive industries’ most environmentally damaging materials.

Who Is Modern Synthesis?

Founded by former Adidas designer Jen Keane and biomaterials specialist Ben Reeve, Modern Synthesis is an emerging leader in the development of next-generation textiles that move beyond petrochemical and animal-derived materials. The company, headquartered in London, is focused on harnessing bacterial nanocellulose to create a versatile range of fabrics that are not only high-performance but also fully biodegradable.

Keane, now CEO, came into the spotlight in 2018 when she successfully ‘grew’ a shoe using bacteria, demonstrating the potential of biofabrication. However, she believes the true potential lies not in shaping materials as they grow, but in using bacterial cellulose as a foundational fibre that can be manipulated and scaled like traditional textiles.

What is this New Material and Why is it Significant?

Modern Synthesis’ material is primarily made from bacterial nanocellulose, i.e. a natural fibre that is eight times stronger than steel when produced at the nanoscale (materials measured in nanometres, typically less than 100 nm). Unlike plant-based cellulose (which requires intensive farming, land, and water), bacterial nanocellulose is cultivated through fermentation. This makes it a highly efficient and sustainable alternative.

What sets Modern Synthesis apart is its proprietary process, which integrates bacterial nanocellulose with a woven or knitted textile scaffold. This method allows the final material to be fine-tuned for different textures and mechanical properties, making it possible to replace synthetic leathers, coated fabrics, and even high-performance technical textiles.

Unlike most bio-based leather alternatives (which often rely on synthetic binders to achieve durability), Modern Synthesis’ process is entirely free from petrochemicals. The result is a fully biodegradable material that behaves much like conventional textiles but with a significantly reduced environmental footprint.

How is the Material Made?

The production process is an advanced form of microbial fermentation. The company uses a strain of bacteria known as Komagataeibacter rhaeticus, which naturally produces nanocellulose when fed with agricultural sugars. As the bacteria grow, they deposit nanocellulose fibres around a specially designed yarn scaffold, resulting in a unique, nonwoven textile structure.

This controlled approach allows for the fine-tuning of material properties, such as flexibility, strength, and texture, by adjusting the bacterial growth conditions and the composition of the scaffold. Unlike synthetic textiles that require chemical treatments to achieve similar properties, Modern Synthesis’ materials develop these characteristics organically.

Environmental and Industry Implications

The implications for both the fashion industry and the wider materials market could be vast. For example, leather and synthetic textiles, such as polyurethane-based vegan leathers, are major contributors to greenhouse gas emissions, plastic pollution, and deforestation. The carbon footprint of Modern Synthesis’ bacterial nanocellulose-based textiles is expected to be significantly lower than that of both traditional leather and synthetic alternatives.

Water usage is another key area of impact. Traditional leather production requires thousands of litres of water per square metre, whereas bacterial nanocellulose fermentation uses a fraction of that amount. Also, Modern Synthesis’ material does not involve toxic tanning chemicals, further reducing its environmental impact.

For businesses, this innovation could offer a way to meet growing consumer demand for sustainability without sacrificing quality or performance. Luxury brands and sportswear companies have already shown interest, with Danish fashion house Ganni collaborating with Modern Synthesis in 2023 to create a handbag made entirely without petrochemicals.

Potential Applications

Beyond fashion, Modern Synthesis’ materials have potential applications in:

– Footwear. As a lightweight, durable replacement for leather and synthetic uppers.

– Automotive interiors. The material’s high-temperature resistance and durability make it an attractive option for dashboards and upholstery.

– Smart textiles. The company is exploring how nanocellulose can be integrated with electronics for wearable technology.

Keane has highlighted the versatility of the material, stating, “Cellulosic materials don’t melt like synthetics do. If you think about car dashboards, how they start to warp when left in the sun too long—our materials won’t do that.”

Challenges and Limitations

While Modern Synthesis’ technology seems promising, there are still many hurdles to overcome before widespread adoption. For example, the company recognises that scaling production to meet industrial demand remains a major challenge. With this in mind, the company is currently working to increase production at its pilot facility fivefold, but larger-scale manufacturing will require further investment and infrastructure.

Another challenge is recyclability. While the material is biodegradable, ensuring it is also recyclable without compromising its durability remains a key focus. Many bio-based materials require additional treatments that can hinder their ability to be repurposed at the end of their life cycle. Modern Synthesis is understood to be actively working with “green chemistries” to develop formulations that balance performance with circularity.

Who Else is Developing Similar Materials?

Modern Synthesis is actually part of a growing movement towards microbial-based textiles. Other players exploring bacterial nanocellulose include:

– MycoWorks, which specialises in mushroom-derived mycelium leather.

– Bolt Threads. Developed Mylo, another mycelium-based leather alternative.

– Ananas Anam, the creators of Piñatex, a plant-based leather alternative derived from pineapple leaves.

However, most of these alternatives still require synthetic binders, whereas Modern Synthesis’ approach stands out for being entirely bio-based and customisable at the nanoscale.

What Does This Mean For Your Organisation?

Modern Synthesis’ bacterial nanocellulose-based textiles could be an important advancement in the quest for sustainable materials. By leveraging microbial fermentation to create high-performance, biodegradable fabrics, the company is offering an alternative that challenges both traditional leather and synthetic textiles on environmental grounds. Unlike many bio-based alternatives that still rely on petrochemical additives, this new class of material is not only renewable but also fully biodegradable, making it a compelling solution for industries seeking to reduce their ecological footprint.

However, while the potential is undeniable, challenges remain. Scaling up production to meet commercial demand is a critical hurdle, as is ensuring the material can be seamlessly integrated into existing supply chains. Also, achieving true circularity (i.e. where the material is not just biodegradable but also efficiently recyclable) will be essential in determining its long-term impact. Modern Synthesis appears to be actively addressing these concerns, but success will likely depend on continued innovation and investment.

What appears to set Modern Synthesis apart is not just its scientific approach but its vision for redefining how materials are made. By collaborating with major fashion brands and exploring applications beyond apparel, the company is positioning its technology as a viable replacement for some of the most environmentally damaging materials in use today. If production challenges can be overcome, bacterial nanocellulose textiles could play a key role in reducing reliance on fossil fuels, lowering carbon emissions, and transforming industries that have long been dependent on resource-intensive materials.

This innovation could, therefore, offer a promising glimpse into the future of sustainable manufacturing. While it may take time to achieve widespread adoption, the foundations are being laid for a possible material revolution and one that moves beyond extraction and towards biofabrication. If Modern Synthesis and others in the field can bridge the gap between laboratory breakthroughs and large-scale industry use, bacterial nanocellulose textiles could become a defining material of the sustainable era.

Sustainability-in-Tech : Finns Finally Fabricate Fungus Fodder

Finish company Enifer is bringing back a protein made from fungus (a microprotein) that was first developed and used in the 1970s for animal feed but could now work as a sustainable protein source for the human diet.

Pekilo ® 

Enifer’s Pekilo ® microprotein was developed from fungus in the 70s and used for fifteen years in farming as fodder before being forgotten after the general biorefining focus at the time shifted to waste-water treatment, and the engineering company that developed it also went bankrupt.

Fast forward to 2020 and thanks to the memory of one of the original R&D workers, and the rediscovery of an R&D project, startup Enifer was formed out of the VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland with five co-founders, Simo Ellilä being the CEO.

Factory Funding 

Enifer has now secured €33 million of Series B funding for the world’s first commercial factory to produce the mycoprotein ingredient from the food industry side stream raw materials at Kirkkonummi, Finland.

What Is Pekilo® And What’s So Good About It? 

Pekilo® is a single-cell protein (SCP) produced through a fermentation process using the biomass of fungi. It is produced from industrial side streams (i.e. waste products from other industries) such as lactose from the dairy industry and lignocellulosic hydrolysates (by-products of processes such as wood and paper production).

Pekilo® has many advantages, such as:

– It offers sustainable production. Being produced from industrial side streams means it’s a sustainable and environmentally friendly source of protein. For example, the process utilises waste materials, reducing overall waste and promoting circular economy principles.

– Pekilo® has a high protein content, typically ranging between 60-70 per cent. This makes it an excellent source of protein for both human consumption or animal feed. Enifer says, for example, it’s “an ideal drop-in ingredient for aquafeed, pet food, and food production”. 

– In addition to the high protein content, Pekilo® also has a generally high nutritional value. For example, it contains essential amino acids, vitamins, and minerals necessary for animal growth and health, which is why it is a comprehensive dietary supplement/drop-in ingredient.

– Pekilo® has a lower environmental impact compared twith traditional protein sources like soy or fishmeal. It also requires less land and water and generates lower greenhouse gas emissions.

– The product can be manufactured to have consistent quality in terms of protein content and nutritional profile, which is crucial for feed formulation and ensures reliable nutrition for livestock.

– The fermentation process for producing Pekilo® is relatively fast, meaning this can facilitate rapid production and scalability. This can meet the growing world demand for protein in a sustainable manner.

– It’s antibiotic-free, which means a reduced risk of antibiotic resistance and a cleaner product for animal feed.

– Pekilo® is economically viable because it utilises industrial by-products for its production. This can lower feed costs, enhance economic viability for producers, and make it an attractive alternative to conventional protein sources.

– The fact that it can be used in various feed applications, including aquaculture, poultry, and pigs, makes it a very versatile and flexible component in animal nutrition.

– Pekilo® has long shelf life due to its drying process, which removes moisture and prevents spoilage. Proper packaging and storage in cool, dry conditions further preserve its nutritional value, making it a reliable and stable feed ingredient over extended periods.

– Its neutral flavour (the food grade version) means it’s suitable for a wide range of human foods, Savoury or sweet. Although currently the feed-grade version apparently has a distinctive taste, Enifer is working on making the flavour more neutral. This means it will be more versatile in feed formulations, more acceptable to various animal species and will ensure better feed intake.

Regulatory Clearance Needed First 

Although the product sounds very promising, the food-grade human version will first need to get regulatory clearance as a novel food before being added to any foods for human consumption. It’s understood that Enifer has so far applied to regulators in the EU, with plans to target Singapore and the US next.

What Does This Mean For Your Organisation? 

The introduction of Enifer’s Pekilo® could be a significant advancement in sustainable protein production. For example, it could offer substantial benefits for UK businesses looking to align with environmental goals and meet growing global protein demand. Using industrial side streams to produce this microprotein not only reduces waste but also promotes a circular economy, making it an eco-friendly choice that could revolutionise the protein industry.

For companies in the food and feed sectors, Pekilo® offers a high-protein, nutritionally rich ingredient that can enhance the quality of animal feed while significantly lowering the environmental impact compared to traditional protein sources like soy and fishmeal. Its consistent quality and rapid production capabilities mean it could reliably meet the increasing demand for protein in a scalable and sustainable manner.

Also, Pekilo®’s long shelf life and neutral flavour mean it could be a versatile ingredient for various applications, including aquaculture, poultry, pig food, and potentially human foods. As consumer awareness and demand for sustainable and plant-based proteins grow, incorporating Pekilo® into product lines could help food businesses to position themselves at the forefront of this market shift. It could also help facilitate the transition towards more plant-based diets, thereby reducing reliance on meat and the associated environmental footprint.

Although regulatory clearance is still required for human consumption, the prospects for Pekilo® seem promising. As Enifer progresses through the necessary approvals, early adoption and integration of this sustainable protein source may offer a competitive edge. Businesses that embrace Pekilo® may not only contribute to environmental sustainability but also appeal to a growing segment of eco-conscious consumers, ultimately driving long-term growth and success in a rapidly evolving market.

By integrating Pekilo® into business operations, food-based businesses may not only investing in a sustainable future but may also help address the urgent need for environmentally friendly protein alternatives. In addition to enhancing a brand’s reputation, incorporating this or similar ingredients could be a way for food businesses to meet consumer demand for sustainable products, and play a crucial role in the global shift towards a more sustainable food system.

Sustainability-in-Tech : New 3D Printer Automatically Identifies Different Sustainable Materials

There’s an increasing range of renewable and recyclable materials now available yet 3D printers have historically been limited by the need to create new parameter sets for each one. However, MIT researchers have now made a 3D printer that can automatically identify the parameters of unknown materials on its own.

Overcoming The Parameter Limitations 

The problem with having to 3D print a new material from scratch up until now has been that typically at least 100 parameters must be set up in the software which controls how the printer will extrude the material as it fabricates an object. The materials commonly used for 3D printing (e.g. mass-manufactured polymers) already have established sets of parameters (that were only perfected through lengthy trial-and-error processes).

Now, with the need to use more renewable and recyclable materials (the properties of which can fluctuate widely based on their composition) making fixed parameter sets in the 3D printer for each one is nearly impossible to create, with the only option to date being users having to set all the parameters by hand.

However, researchers at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) appear to have solved this problem by developing a 3D printer that can automatically identify the parameters of an unknown material on its own.

How? 

The new 3D printer is able to work out the parameters for different materials thanks to a modified extruder which can measure the forces and flow of a material. A load cell measures the pressure being exerted on the printing filament, and a feed rate sensor measures the thickness of the filament and the actual rate at which it is being fed through the printer.

The data gathered by the new extruder (via the load cell and feed rate sensor, in a 20-minute test) can then be fed into a mathematical function that is used to automatically generate printing parameters. The parameters can then be entered into off-the-shelf 3D printing software and used to print with a never-before-seen material.

In experiments with six different materials, several of which were bio-based, the new 3D printer was able to automatically generate viable parameters that consistently led to successful prints of a complex object.

As lead researcher Neil Gershenfeld, pointed out: “The goal is to make 3D printing more sustainable”. 

Opens The Door For More Recycled and Bio-based Materials 

Looking ahead, as noted by Alysia Garmulewicz, an associate professor in the Faculty of Administration and Economics at the University of Santiago in Chile: “By developing a new method for the automatic generation of process parameters for fused filament fabrication, this study opens the door to the use of recycled and bio-based filaments that have variable and unknown behaviours. Importantly, this enhances the potential for digital manufacturing technology to utilise locally sourced sustainable materials.” 

Also, the researchers have said that they will be applying their discovery in other areas of advanced manufacturing, as well as in expanding access to metrology (the scientific study of measurement).

What Does This Mean For Your Organisation? 

This discovery by the MIT researchers could be a significant advancement for businesses looking to embrace green manufacturing practices. This breakthrough not only saves time (and money) and simplifies the 3D printing process but also offers the potential for companies to innovate in ways that are both economically and environmentally sustainable.

For businesses, the implications of this technology go far beyond the mere convenience of automation. This printer could enable the use of a wider range of renewable and recyclable materials, significantly reducing dependency on traditional, often non-sustainable materials. As a result, organisations may be able to lower their environmental impact and align more closely with evolving regulations and consumer expectations regarding sustainability.

The ability of this printer to handle materials with variable and unknown behaviours also opens the door to using more locally sourced materials. This could be particularly beneficial for businesses aiming to reduce their carbon footprint by minimising the logistics associated with transporting materials. Also, it enhances the potential for creating more personalised and localised products, catering to specific market demands with greater agility.

The discovery of this new 3D technology could also bring further innovations in digital manufacturing. It may help businesses to explore new product designs and applications without the extensive time and cost previously involved in trial-and-error parameter setting. This may not only accelerate product development but may also make small-scale, bespoke production runs more feasible and cost-effective.

Crucially, the incorporation of more recycled and bio-based materials into mainstream manufacturing processes, facilitated by this new technology, could help more businesses contribute to a circular economy. This shift may help conserve natural resources and also open up new business opportunities in the recycling sector. Companies that can efficiently convert waste into valuable printing materials may be more likely to thrive in an increasingly resource-conscious market.